Frequently asked questions

Plumbing should be in good working order — dripping faucets and any hardware installation should be done before arrival (the drain does not have to be removed). If there is fresh paint on the walls, masking tape may pull some off, especially where sheetrock meets the front skirt of the tub. Please clear the bathroom of loose articles (shower curtains, rugs, items on counters); anything not in a cupboard or drawer should be removed. We handle all necessary covering of walls and floors. We will need electricity and running water in the tub, and heat if it is cold outside, since the surface and glaze must stay above a certain temperature.

Approximately 4 to 7 hours.

It can be used in about 8 hours — typically the same or next day.

Many years, depending on the care it gets — similar to a car.

Yes, there are fumes generated, however we vent them out a window with a commercial exhaust system.

No. Plumbing problems (leaks, broken fixtures, etc.) must be resolved by a plumber before refinishing.

We highly don't recommend it. We're often called to redo a tub done with one of these. DIY kits are limited in strength and durability and just don't last — they're usually an epoxy coating that can take many days to dry and yellows over time. Most are rolled or brushed on (not a professional look), and aerosol kits cause uneven coverage, dry spray, and drips.

You can buy a $300 bathtub, but it's the cheapest tub and you'd be lucky if it lasts 3 years. Then there's the cost of installing it: a tile guy (the tub's lip goes under the first row of tiles, and floor tiles often crack when removing the old one) and a plumber for the fixtures and drain — hoping pipes don't break. That $300 tub takes several days to install and thousands in labor and tile work, even without major plumbing issues. If you do replace, do yourself a favor and get a quality tub.